Ejido de Tirado

More about the tour Donna took us on the other day:- Ejido de Tirado is a stretch of land on the outskirts of San Miguel which used to be the municipal dump. People started to make shelters made out of tar paper and cardboard with tin roofs when dumping ceased and then, when they had a few pesos saved up, would buy bricks etc and build another 'home' joined on. As I understand it, Casa de los Angeles were helping some families with these projects and then built a three storey Apartment Block in E de T where families could live for a period of time rent free, give what they would have been paying in rent to be saved up for them, and subsequently afford to build the first unit of their new home.

The photo above is of one of the first buildings in the project which has been added on to over the years. The building closest with the wood on top is a separate bathroom. The project was eventually taken over by a programme called Casita Linda and they are now helping low income families to build houses like the ones in the photo to the right. I tried to insert a link for their website but it's not working. It's casitalinda.org/en. The Apartment Block has since become a Refuge for wives and children at risk of domestic abuse etc where they have the support of other women in similar situations who help keep them safe and making decisions best for their families and themselves.

We then went to the Chapel of San Miguel Arcangel, el Senor de la Conquista at what used to be called by the indigenous Guamare people Izcuinapan, the place of the dogs. The Chapel was built in the 16th century and legend has it that one of the dogs ran away and was discovered in what is now the centre of San Miguel where there was an abundant natural water supply. So the settlement relocated there in time and the pink Cathedral, El Parroquia de San Miguel etc built. I walk to the Plaza every afternoon to sit in the shade (did I mention it's 26c? :)) read my book and people watch. Such a different place to el Ejido, and only just over a mile or so away. This city has a lot of North American retirees living here, so the prices are more expensive than in other Mexican cities, but, on arriving at the Cathedral and the Plaza with the narrow cobbled streets leading off it in typical Spanish grid pattern, one would assume that there is no poverty in this beautiful place.......

Hogar de los Angeles

Hi, arrived in San Miguel Allende yesterday afternoon. This is my tree room at the Volunteer House - love it: so much light. Has a roof terrace but I haven't been brave enough to make it up the ladder yet. Started in La Guarderia this morning with the Monday morning Flag ceremony. The children, all 100 of them, wear white clothes on a Monday as a sign of respect for the flag and their country. I was supposed to be in the babies' room but ended up giving two of the toddlers their breakfasts. That was the easy bit, think they were breaking me in. Donna, the founder of the project, then took the seven of us on a tour of another of her projects which I'll tell you about in the next post. When we got back I went to the babies' room, all eleven of them, from 3 to 8 months and just the teacher and me. Carrot soup for lunch: four babies at a time, got a bit messy. That WAS the easy bit. After lunch they were laid down in cots, 3 to a cot, so that the chairs could be cleaned.

I had six in 2 cots and the 3 month gorgeous baby girl in her little rocky chair, swaddled the way I was shown to swaddle my first two when they were born. She was as good as gold once she'd got her bottle but the rest, OMG, one started to cry and it was contagious. They all seem to have colds so you can imagine!!! I ended up picking them up, one by one, holding one and giving a bottle to another in the cot: just for my own sanity. Got them more or less settled, Vero the teacher changed them one by one, and they were happy clean wee bunnies when their Mums came to collect them:)

When Donna came to San Miguel twelve years ago she wanted to make a difference but had the sense to talk to the local woman about what they felt was lacking in the community. Over 100 of them said a safe place for their children when they were working. So she set up the Daycare in what is now the Volunteer House for the children of mainly single mother, low income households. The Director, Miguel, visits the home of every one who applies for this free daycare facility, there are many stipulations, one of which is that the mother has to be in work at least 3 days a week.

If they aren't their children are looked after for two weeks to give them the opportunity to find work. The mothers also have to work one hour a day at the Centre before taking their children home with them. Eligible mothers also can have Comida, the afternoon meal, and there are some older children who come after school to wait for younger siblings, etc. I think there are six classes from babies to 4 year olds with two qualified teachers on site who then act as co-ordinators for the other four.

When we arrived back from our tour about 12.15 the place was entirely quiet, except for the babies' room, because ALL of the 100 or so children were having their naps. Carolyn, the Volunteer Co-ordinator, took me around to introduce me to the teachers and it was lovely to see all the wee ones snuggled on mats sound asleep. This wonderful, happy place is funded entirely by donations from individuals and by fundraising events. Anyone can donate via Paypal on the website and even request that the donation is used for vegetables, fruit, nappies, play resources, books, whatever. http://casadelosangeles.org/

Last night in Queretaro for a while

Yesterday, Saturday, was my last day in Queretero for nearly four weeks so I took a taxi downtown for a wander about on my own. There seems to be a church on every corner in the historic centre but my favourite is Santa Rosa Viterbo. Here's a little of what Wikipedia says about it: (The Church and ex-convent of Santa Rosa de Viterbo is attributed to Alarife Ignacio Mariano de las Casas and financed by José Velasquez de Lorea, finished in 1752. The church has twin entrances, which was common with convent churches. The two arches are decorated with mocking faces put there by Casas to those who did not think he could manage the building of the institution.[17] The outside is flanked by scroll-shaped flying buttresses, which only serve as decoration and are unique to Querétaro.[2][12] The tower has a unique shape and is topped with a pyramid-shaped crest.

There is an inner doorway decorated in Churrigueresque style and an image of Saint Rose.[17] Inside, the most outstanding feature is the pulpit inlaid with ivory, nacre, turtle shell and silver,[2] and its altarpieces are gold covered in Querétaro Baroque style.) There is a plaza opposite dedicated to Mariano de las Casas with beautifully clipped trees and a large fountain which, on the hour, does the dancing fountains thing to music - better than Bellagio I think. Met DD and B in Hanks again for Happy Hour, very dangerous! Two drinks for the price of one, huge measures, bit of a hangover this morning.

But eight of us went out for a walk first thing with dogs and bikes which got rid of some of the cobwebs. DD and I went back to Maria y su Bici this week and had more Pulque :)) and quite a spectacular Tlayuda with little tortilla cups holding mole, chapulines (dried grasshoppers), pickled red onion, and little pieces of meat. Very tasty, muy rico! In San Miguel Allende now - arrived this afternoon. Beautiful place, another World Heritage Site, which I'm looking forward to exploring. Starting at La Casa de los Angeles tomorrow, more later.....x

Soumaya

Finally got to Soumaya in Polanco on Tuesday. It's a new Museum, opened in 2011 and owned by the Carlos Slim Foundation, which houses Sr. Slim's extensive art and artifact collections. It is named for his late wife. It was designed by his son in law, the architect Fernando Romero, and engineered with Frank Gehry and Ove Arup. A fabulous building, clad in aluminium tiles which are angled in places, with a small entrance on one side at the top of a flight of steps. It has been compared to both the Selfridges building in Birmingham and Gehry's Guggenheim in Bilbao and the interior is reminiscent of Frank Lloyd Wright's Guggenheim in Manhattan: a bit like the inside of a snail shell with a spiral ramp going all the way to the sixth floor. The Galleries on each floor are to the inside of this. There's a huge wide staircase made of Italian white marble from the entrance hall to Sala 2 - a huge space containing only 3 Rodin sculptures, including one of the many casts of 'The Thinker'.

Slim's collection has been criticised for 'quantity rather than quality' which I would agree with in part. The works of many well known European Artists are there, but not necessary works in the style for which that artist became famous. I loved the suite of 6 paintings of Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden attributed to Brueghel, the Diego Riveras, the huge mural by David Alfaro Sigueiros, as well as his other paintings, but, most of all, the sculptures in the vast airy space of the top floor: especially the 13 by Salvador Dali. When we had done it we took the Metro downtown to Bellas Artes, the Opera House, and walked to the Zocalo: Mexico City's vast central Plaza, which has two huge Cathedrals, the old and the new (Metropolitan: started in 1567 and finished in 1788!) at the north end, and the Palacio Nacional on the east.

This is what Wikipedia says about it: 'The modern Zócalo in Mexico City is 57,600 metres² (240 m × 240 m), making it one of the largest city squares in the world.[4] It is bordered by the Cathedral to the north, the National Palace to the east, the Federal District buildings to the south and the Old Portal de Mercaderes to the west, the Nacional Monte de Piedad building at the north-west corner, with the Templo Mayor site to the northeast, just outside of view. In the center is a flagpole with an enormous Mexican flag ceremoniously raised and lowered each day[1] and carried into the National Palace.[2] There is an entrance to the Metro station "Zócalo" located at the northeast corner of the square but no sign above ground indicates its presence'. I just love strolling through the city looking at the buildings and people watching. It's always busy and noisy: organ grinders with pretend monkeys, traffic police blowing whistles, horns honking - Mexican drivers have NO patience.

The street from Bellas Artes down to the Plaza is now pedestrianised which is good. Strange to see private fully armed Security Guards outside shops - even at the Butcher's stall at the local Market, Central de Abastos, here in Qto - and there were more Police patrolling the streets than I remember from last time. On Tuesday night the four of us went out for dinner to an Argentinian Restaurant, El Diaz, in Claveria for Arrachera - the most scrumptious flank steak. I love it - melt in the mouth - although mine had a zillion calories' worth piled on top: bacon, cheese, ham, peppers, chilis: and proper, proper, really dry chips underneath. B and I had a jug of the Mexican version of Sangria- Clericot - between us. Had a lovely night and I was able to pick up the tab. Have 2 credit cards and 2 debit cards with me: the credit cards were blocked about two weeks ago, even though Santander and Tesco know I'm abroad - shame on them! My Santander debit card I'm afraid to use in case they block it too but the good old Barclays debit is still working, or at least it was on Tuesday night, thank goodness. Back in Queretaro now, more later in the week x

Mexico City

Came down here on Saturday to get the Volvo MOT'd and are staying until Wednesday. Dependent on the last number of your car's number plate there are days when you can't drive it in the city and Tuesday is the day for the Volvo. Weather's grey and cool but dry. When we arrived Dulce had her famous Caldo ready and waiting for us - chicken soup with chunks of courgette, chayote, sweetcorn, potato, carrot, rice cooked separately with chilis and served with avocado, queso oaxaqueno, chicharron (deep fried pork rind), salsa and tortillas.

Sunday, yesterday, we went downtown to La Ciudadela, a big Craft Market. One of the main avenues downtown, Reforma, is closed off on a Sunday for cyclists only. Strange in a city infamous for its horrendous traffic to see empty streets. The Melia Hotel in this photo is where I stayed the first time I came over, very central and within walking distance of the Alameda, Bellas Artes Opera House, the Zocalo, Cathedrals, etc.

We bought some lovely pottery in the market for the new house, gorgeous 3 footed bowls and a huge plate decorated with chilis, and some other bits and bobs. The colours of the pottery, the textiles, the bags, everything in fact are just so vibrant. Would have loved to have bought more but I have a very, very small suitcase with me so, short of jettisoning all my clothes: no room. Made the mistake the first time I came over of bringing my larger case which I then had difficulty lugging on and off buses and up stairs etc. so, ever since,I travel as light as possible. There will be lots of lovely things to tempt me anyway in San Miguel. It's where all the pierced tinware is produced; from Cheval mirrors to lovely light-shades and boxes etc. Will take some pictures when I get there x

Maria y su Bici, Wicklow, Beer Tasting & Central de Abastos.

Travelled back from Puerto Vallarta on the Primera Plus night bus, eleven hours, arriving here about 8 Tuesday morning. Very comfortable, big reclining seats, leg rests, movies..... Tuesday night we went out to a Restaurant serving only typical Comida Oaxaquena in the historic centre of the city - Maria y su Bici - the bicycle being a huge old Penny Farthing parked outside. The restaurant is in a really old building, vaulted ceilings and beautifully decorated walls. A twenty foot communal scrubbed wood table down the middle, with only four legs and holes in the planks, and other tables for two or three along the walls.

There's also a lovely patio out back but there is a cold wind here at present so we sat inside. Ordered drinks, B had Mezcal. a spirit like Tequila but made from Maguey instead of Blue Agave, D a beer and I had Pulque, an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the Maguey which is ancient drink, once only allowed to be imbibed by certain classes of people because it was considered sacred. I had read about it but had never seen it offered. I had mine mixed with Coconut water and it was served in a beautifully decorated half Calabaza gourd.

Loved it, very moreish but with a sting in the tail. We ordered a Tlayuda between us,a large crispy tortilla spread with pig fat and with mole, tasajo - partially dried beef - and finely grated cheese. After that we went up the road a bit to Wicklow, an Irish bar owned by an Argentine, which is the most authentic non-Irish Bar I've been in ever I think. Great atmosphere: loads of rugby Memorabilia, including fairly recent photos of an Ulster Squad; and great music. Only thing missing was draught Guinness.

Last night we went to a Beer and Cheese Tasting in a tiny little specialist Cervezeria. New concept beer & cheese? Uruguayan lager with local mild goats' cheese worked well. Mexican hoppy ale with local Port Salut less so. Mexican Stout with Maturado de Semidesierto, like Manchego but made with cows' milk, complemented each other but the very best was a stout called Jack Chocolate with bread made with white chocolate and lots of rosemary. That was sensational. Yesterday early D and I went to the local wholesale market for fruit and vegetables and came back laden. Everything was so cheap - a wooden tray of Blackberries, maybe 4 or 5 kilos in it: 60 pesos, £3. B is going to freeze some of them for smoothies and also make jam. There was a kilo bag of Limes in the 'fridge already so I have just made 7 pots of Lime Marmalade which I am pleased, and relieved, to say is setting as I type this :) Going to Mexico City tomorrow for the weekend - hope to visit the new Museum Carlos Slim built to house his personal collections. Apparently the architecture is amazing.....

Is this winter, Pacific style?

The Ocean is amazing today. Don't know whether it's because of a full moon (haven't seen the moon since I got here so don't know which phase it's in) but the tide this morning was so high it was breaking over the promenade walls and right up to the boardwalks. The beach restaurants on Playa de los Muertos were inundated.The breakers were huge and there were plenty of body boarders out where the river flows out into the sea. A lifeguard was walking along the beach telling people not to go into the water because of the dangerous currents.

About ten minutes after he had passed me I could see a black shape out beyond the rocks at the end of the beach and just assumed it was a pelican. Wasn't until I heard whistles and saw two lifeguards taking to the water that I realised it was actually someone who had been washed out. There seemed to be a guy who was swimming out to him from the next beach behind the rocks but the lifeguards got there first. However, none of them could get back in. Eventually a speed boat towing a parachute got to them and threw them his spare lifejacket and some minutes later a jet ski arrived and took two people up onto it. Even the lifeguards had difficulty getting back to the beach. Once they were within throwing distance they jettisoned their floatation aids, one got in pretty quickly but the other was really struggling with the undertow from the breakers. Turned out he had hurt his leg, also seemed to have bad cramp and it took him ages to recover. And these were really strong looking young men. Has clouded over now and actually was getting a bit cool - like probably 23c! Really strange to see locals walking around with coats and mufflers and turistas locas like me in their swimsuits :)

Ballenas Jorobadas

Took a taxi to the Marina Terminal early this morning and was only a little surprised when the Taxi driver crossed himself on hearing I was going out on a boat!! Despite leaving an hour later than planned - I met an lovely couple from Indiana while having a cup of coffee so the time went quickly - the whale watching excursion was excellent. Two tier boat; fruit, juices, sandwiches, beer, margaritas all included; went out into Banderas Bay and had spotted the first Humpback Whales within ten minutes or so. Apparently these whales spend the summers in Arctic regions feeding on krill, etc and then travel south to the Tropics in the winter months to give birth and mate. They don't eat during these four months or so, from December through March, and can lose up to 40% I think of their body weight. We saw not only Mothers and Calves but also Escorts. I tried to take pictures but, as it was so bright I couldn't see the display on the camera, I ended up just pointing and clicking. Correspondingly I have some beautiful photos of the sky and only a few of whales :( However, we saw dozens, the closest pair only 20 yards or so from the boat and they both fluked which was an incredible sight. As were the, what I think were, Blue Footed Boobies flying around the boat.

Yoga on the Beach

Found a Yoga class this morning which meets from 8 to 9am on the beach just 5 minutes walk away. Amazing - had to keep saying to myself 'I'm on a beach on the Pacific, under palm trees with Pelicans flying overhead, doing Yoga'! There were a couple of poses new to me which were a bit challenging but the instructor was very good and I loved it when, as we were lying in relaxation, he stood behind each one of us and wafted incense (tip for you El.M

:) - very Eat, Pray, Love. Have a Whale Watching Trip booked for tomorrow which I'm looking forward to. Hope we spot some. Last time I went on one off Boston we got a two glimpses of a Fin Whale after 3 hours freezing to death. At least here it shouldn't be too cold - famous last words! Gorgeous sunset tonight - took loads of photos which I'll upload in due course to the Picasa Web Album. There's a link at the top of the Blog under the Title. Just double click on it and you should get in. I plan to do a lot of uploading when I get back to Qto and have more spare time. Update on Trip tomorrow x

Rain and Sun

Hi again. The rain followed me all the way from Norn Ireland yesterday, although it has to be said that it was probably much warmer than what you've been getting. I walked all the way along the ocean front in the morning - beautiful sculptures at the end of every street which apparently you can see from a viewpoint on one of the hills which I haven't found yet ,will post photos in due course - and eventually came upon a Supermarket which seems to be a rare commodity in the Old Town, plenty of small convenience stores but they don't stock fruit and veg and, seeing as I'm on a cook it myself detox this week........ Got all of these for the equivalent of £10, including handy cans of Margaritas and Palomas which actually seem to have alcohol in them!

On my way down the Malecon I saw a guy feeding the sea birds and went down on to the beach to have a look. He must have been giving them yesterday's fish from somewhere and there were literally dozens of different types of Pelicans, Frigate Birds, Egrets and even what looked like Blck Headed gulls which made me think nostalgically, for a second at least, of home :)

I sat on a rock on the beach under my million mile umbrella and just watched them for ages - they were so close, it was wonderful. Well, you know me and birds! The rain got more persistent in the afternoon so I had a wander around the shops. The Town consists of little cobbled street and avenues, in a grid, with a Plaza with the beautiful Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe to the rear of it. Loads and loads of shops catering for the almost entirely North American tourists, although I did see a French family yesterday. Some very different dress shops, but, by anywhere's standards, the ones I went into were a bit pricey, but beautiful clothes. Tequila tastings everywhere: the touts don't bother me much because I'm on my own but I did have words, nearly used my worst Castellano phrase, involving travel, sex and his mother, with one guy who was trying to flog me a tour and got aggressively persistent.

Today is beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. Blue skies, a little breeze, big breakers on the ocean and some body boarders and paddle boarders out there. I walked right to the end of Playa Punta Negra along the edge of the sea and lay on the beach for a couple of hours watching the world go by. The photo below I took last night from a very modern pier there.

Have just had some lunch and, as it's very hot outside at the minute; although there's a lovely breeze coming in through the patio door; I'll read a little more of Kurt Vonnegut's 'Welcome to the Monkey House' - I'm loving his style of writing and wondering why I haven't read him before a friend recently recommended him - before I go back down to the beach. More later x

from Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta

Had a good weekend exploring the city and a lovely day on Sunday at the Zoo. I caught my bus to PV at 10 this morning, Monday, and enjoyed the 5 1/2 hour journey.Took us ages to get out of the city but, once that was cleared, it was interesting to see how the countryside changed as we travelled west. First miles and miles of fields planted with Blue Agave, Maize and Sorghum, then, over a range of hills and into shrub with cacti, over the next range and acres of Sugar Cane followed by huge tracts of Mango Trees.

As we were getting closer to the coast Banana Trees, Coconut Palms and what looked like Pineapples started to appear and, all of a sudden, vines hanging from the trees and spanish moss. Saw the first Frigate Bird on the same thermals as two Zopilotes ( black vultures) just after we passed Tepic. The Bus Station here is quite small, unlike the one I came from which was vast and confusing, so I had my return ticket bought and was in a taxi seguro very quickly heading for downtown. I'm in Hotel Rio Malecon, 50 yards from the Pacific Ocean and the Malecon, the promenade, in a room with a small kitchenette. I have a patio door leading out on to a balcony which goes around the first floor. To the right is the ocean and to the left the mountains and underneath a cobbled street. It's perfect: right in the centre of the old town, lots of shops and church bells ringing and hustle and bustle. There's a Bar and Restaurant on the ground floor patio so I'll not starve or die of thirst - luckily Happy Hour is from 3 - 7 :)) Went to see the ocean as soon as I unpacked. Huge breakers, tide right in on Playa de Muertos, Will be interesting to see how far it goes out and what the beach is like. Loads of birds. A flock of pelicans flew over as I started out. There were egrets and ducks and cormorant-like birds as well as a group of what may have been avocets on the river. I'm looking forward to doing plenty of walking and less eating here - more tomorrow x

Mariachis and Charreria

Well, here we are in Hotel Portobelo in downtown Guadalajara, Mexico's second largest municipality after Mexico City. Very comfortable Primera Plus bus ride from Queretaro took about 4 1/2 hours yesterday and, for our snack, they gave us the Mexican equivalent of a ham & cheese croissant - with chipotle paste. It worked :) When our taxi driver, who looked about 13, finally found our hotel, after phoning at least one friend, we checked in to our really spacious room overlooking a large park and then went exploring.

The Cathedral was built in the 16th Century of local stone, basalt maybe, which has black streaks through it, It and the Temple to the side are very colonial in style, as is the Plaza opposite with its Portales lining three sides. We took a Tranvia (small tram like open sided vehicle)for a 90 minute ride around some of the city - a good way to orientate. You'll see in the next photo the huge Tequila Bottle next to the tram. There's a town about an hour away, also in Jalisco state, called Tequila and it's outside there the Jose Cuervo distillery is situated. You can take a special train out there with degustation, food and music, tour of the premises, a Show and a meal for about £90 a head, which we thought a tad expensive. So we'll settle for tastings in several bars over the weekend. Found an old Restaurant in the centre yesterday, late afternoon, Happy Hour just started: 2 Margaritas for £3.50: stayed at a table overlooking the street, had some food and people watched listening to the Pianist on the patio. Oh, and it's about 20c here too. On the way through on the bus yesterday there were acres and acres of Blue Agave planted, beautiful colours, for Tequila making. As well as Maize, Sorghum, cabbages (?), Strawberries (around Irapuato) huge plastic tunnels of capsicums and salady stuff I guess, going by the signage. Very fertile area from Queretaro to here - La Sierra Gorda.

Jalisco is famous for Tequila, Charreria; horsemanship, akin to rodeo; and Mariachis. Los Charros were horsemen who worked in the Haciendas, think Bonanza. I saw Charros and Charras ride in the September 16th Parade in Mexico City - very well dressed, on beautiful horses. Loads of shops here specialising in cowboy hats, clothes and boots. Found a gorgeous pair of baby blue crocodile skin boots last night, on sale for only £25!, but thought they might look a bit silly in Norn Ireland :( Haven't seen any Mariachis yet - passed the area where you can hire them yesterday on the tram, but it's on the wrong side of the tracks, literally, so perhaps we'll give it a miss. That's all for now - going exploring again as soon as I can get D out of bed! x

Guadalajara

As the lovely Kirsty MacColl wrote in 'In these shoes?', this is what I might be doing later on today (in my dreams :))......... "So I'm sitting at a bar in Guadalajara - In walks a guy with a faraway look in his eyes - He said "I've got a powerful horse outside - Climb on the back, I'll take you for a ride - I know a little place, we can get there for the break of day." - I said "In these shoes? - No way, Jose" - I said "Honey, let's stay right here."