Maria y su Bici, Wicklow, Beer Tasting & Central de Abastos.

Travelled back from Puerto Vallarta on the Primera Plus night bus, eleven hours, arriving here about 8 Tuesday morning. Very comfortable, big reclining seats, leg rests, movies..... Tuesday night we went out to a Restaurant serving only typical Comida Oaxaquena in the historic centre of the city - Maria y su Bici - the bicycle being a huge old Penny Farthing parked outside. The restaurant is in a really old building, vaulted ceilings and beautifully decorated walls. A twenty foot communal scrubbed wood table down the middle, with only four legs and holes in the planks, and other tables for two or three along the walls.

There's also a lovely patio out back but there is a cold wind here at present so we sat inside. Ordered drinks, B had Mezcal. a spirit like Tequila but made from Maguey instead of Blue Agave, D a beer and I had Pulque, an alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the Maguey which is ancient drink, once only allowed to be imbibed by certain classes of people because it was considered sacred. I had read about it but had never seen it offered. I had mine mixed with Coconut water and it was served in a beautifully decorated half Calabaza gourd.

Loved it, very moreish but with a sting in the tail. We ordered a Tlayuda between us,a large crispy tortilla spread with pig fat and with mole, tasajo - partially dried beef - and finely grated cheese. After that we went up the road a bit to Wicklow, an Irish bar owned by an Argentine, which is the most authentic non-Irish Bar I've been in ever I think. Great atmosphere: loads of rugby Memorabilia, including fairly recent photos of an Ulster Squad; and great music. Only thing missing was draught Guinness.

Last night we went to a Beer and Cheese Tasting in a tiny little specialist Cervezeria. New concept beer & cheese? Uruguayan lager with local mild goats' cheese worked well. Mexican hoppy ale with local Port Salut less so. Mexican Stout with Maturado de Semidesierto, like Manchego but made with cows' milk, complemented each other but the very best was a stout called Jack Chocolate with bread made with white chocolate and lots of rosemary. That was sensational. Yesterday early D and I went to the local wholesale market for fruit and vegetables and came back laden. Everything was so cheap - a wooden tray of Blackberries, maybe 4 or 5 kilos in it: 60 pesos, £3. B is going to freeze some of them for smoothies and also make jam. There was a kilo bag of Limes in the 'fridge already so I have just made 7 pots of Lime Marmalade which I am pleased, and relieved, to say is setting as I type this :) Going to Mexico City tomorrow for the weekend - hope to visit the new Museum Carlos Slim built to house his personal collections. Apparently the architecture is amazing.....